Last week I revisited the 2023 Swiss watch industry report from Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult. While reading through the top 20 brands by market share, I couldn’t help but marvel at how different they are. Even just the top 5 – Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe – all make luxury mechanical watches, but do so in entirely different ways, informed by entirely different histories. I thought it would be fun to build a dream collection, choosing one watch from each brand. My self-inflicted rules are as follows: current-production watches only, no limited editions, and no off-catalog items. Let’s get into the picks.
1. Rolex | Daytona ref. 126500LN
Image Source: Tropical Watch
It’s often said that Rolex’s biggest competitor is vintage Rolex. While choosing a watch from their modern catalog, I found this to be true. Initially, I landed on the Submariner ref. 124060, but if I’m being honest with myself, I greatly prefer the sizing and finishing of its predecessors (ref. 14060M, 5512/3). The same goes for the GMT-Master II.
I eventually landed on the Rolex Daytona ref. 126500LN. This watch is simply the most comfortable automatic chronograph I’ve ever worn. There’s nothing like the fit and finish of a Rolex Daytona. Despite its 40mm diameter, the watch wears closer to a 38mm, and its case/dial finishing are immaculate. I could do without all that dial text, but ultimately, this thing will never fail to put a smile on my face.
2. Cartier | Tank Must SolarBeat
Image Source: Fratello Watches
Choosing a current-production Cartier was much harder than I thought it would be. My pick would be the new Torture Monopusher Chronograph, but that watch was limited to just 400 pieces and is not part of Cartier’s permanent catalog.
My next pick would be the white gold Tank Américaine in medium, but apparently they don’t make that watch anymore. The only white gold Américaine left is the diamond-set “mini”. Adding insult to injury, Cartier no longer makes any mid-sized Tank Américaine; a steel replacement of the same size is out of the cards.
Finally, I landed on the steel Tank Must SolarBeat. This is a super unique watch. It checks the two main boxes of what I’d expect from a Cariter: iconic design and elegant proportions. In an unexpected addition to an early-20th century dress watch, this quartz Tank is powered by photovoltaic energy: sunlight or artificial light. The convenience of a solar watch can’t be overstated, particularly when its battery lasts for 16 years. For all the ticking quartz haters out there, don’t worry–this watch has no seconds hand.
3. Omega | Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Summer Blue
Image Source: Time & Tide
I didn’t choose a dive watch with my Rolex pick, so Omega is my next best bet (on this list, that is). However, I didn’t go with the 300 or 300M . . . I went a bit bigger. Say hello to the Seamaster Ploprof 1200M ‘Summer Blue’.
The Omega Ploprof was released in 1970 as a tool for saturation divers. Instead of developing a way for helium to escape the case (like Rolex did 3 years prior and Omega would do a few years later), Omega developed a chunky monobloc case that prevented helium from ever getting in.
Just over a year ago, Omega released a modern Ploprof in ‘Summer Blue’ as part of their Seamaster 75th Anniversary collection. The ‘Summer Blue’ Ploprof features a steel construction with a sunburst blue dial, dark blue bezel with light blue accents, and dark blue bezel lock button. I absolutely love the color configuration here, and since trying on YoureTerrific’s Ploprof at Redbar, I’ve been in love with the model.
4. Audemars Piguet | Sand Gold Royal Oak Openworked Flying Tourbillon
Image Source: Hodinkee (Mark Kauzlarich)
Modern AP isn’t always the most exciting to me, but I quite like their new Sand Gold material. Sand Gold is an 18k gold alloy whose hue presents between white and pink gold. Unfortunately, I’ve only seen this material behind glass, but thanks to some photos by Mark Kauzlarich, I feel like I’ve spent hands-on time with it.
Because the material was only released this year, there are only two Audemars Piguet watches in Sand Gold. Most recently, they unveiled the angular [RE]Master 02 in Sand Gold: a remake of the rare reference 5159BA. However, not only is that watch a limited edition, I’ve already met my ultra-wide watch quota with the Ploprof.
Image Source: Hodinkee (Mark Kauzlarich)
The Sand Gold Openworked Flying Tourbillon is obviously a knockout. The largely-symmetrical openworked bridge architecture (also sand gold), front-and-center gear train, and of course, flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock are nothing short of marvelous. I also love how the hour indices hang off of the rehaut a bit. In short, if I’m going AP, I’m going over the top.
5. Patek Philippe | Weekly Calendar 5212A
Image Source: Patek Philippe
If I could choose any modern Patek Philippe watch, I’d be a fool not to choose a complicated one. This was a surprisingly easy choice for me; I have a soft spot for the 5212A after seeing one this past spring.
As the story goes, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern requested a mockup of a weekly calendar watch from one of the brand’s in-house designers (I can’t seem to find his name. Leave a comment if you know it). The designer presented a mockup of what would eventually become the 5212A, with the dial text in his handwriting. Stern appreciated the look of this handwritten text so much that he put it into production.
Not only do I enjoy the charm of this handwriting, I love the off-white opaline dial, blackened gold dial furniture, and stepped lugs. While I wish the date wheel was color/finish matched, I can’t be that nitpicky. This is the modern Patek Philippe for me.
Final Thoughts
Ask me again tomorrow, my answers will probably be different. What are your picks? Let us know in the commentsbelow and if you're interesting in customizing your Rolex,check out our selection of integrated straps for specific references.
